2005 Barbaresco Camp Gros Martinenga, Marchesi di Grésy Summer Whites fennel seed and lime on

fennel seed and lime on the palate

graceful tannins

chargrilled aubergine or aged Comté

and the company’s loud

A simple dinner needs proper Rioja charm without ceremony

2005 Barbaresco Camp Gros Martinenga, Marchesi di Grésy Summer Whites fennel seed and lime onCamp Gros Martinenga is one of those wines that explains why mature Nebbiolo has such a devoted following. The 2005 has moved from youthful grip into a beautifully aromatic phase, with dried rose, red cherry, raspberry, orange peel, tobacco leaf, liquorice, truffle and a cool balsamic thread. It is poised rather than showy, with the quiet confidence of a wine that has no need to raise its voice. On the palate, it is savoury, silky and finely held,